Whats All This Rain Good For?

With the record setting amounts of rain we’ve had in the past few weeks keeping lawns cut has been challenging.  But with all this rain there are many benefits, soft soil being one.  September and October are the prime months to core aerate and overseed your lawn.  Core aeration and overseeding provide visable benefits to your lawn above ground and stimulate root growth below the soil.  By aerating the lawn, you are breaking up compaction in the soil which allows water and air to move about, stimulating lawn roots.  Aeration also breaks up any thatch that has accumulated throughout the growing season.  After aeration, it is best to overseed with a Tall fescue mixture.  Be sure to check where your seed comes from, the germination rate and the Weed Seed Percentage.  Seed should be spread at approximately 5 pounds per 1000 square feet, 7-8 pounds per 1000 in bare areas.  Grass seed will need 1.5- 2 inches of watering per week and you should see germination (growth) in 2 weeks time. 

-Mike Pickel

Winterizing Your Garden and Landscape; A To Do List

When the long, cold winter begins approaching in October it is a good idea to start your winter projects.  I have heard many gardening enthusiast lamenting the fact that they never give themselves enough time to complete their projects before the long snowy seasons hits.  So here is a list (in no way is this comprehensive!) of projects and things to think about before the snow hits.

·       It is a good idea to add 2”-3” of mulch around your trees and shrubs to protect their roots from the temperature change.

·       Remember to water your lawn and plants into the fall to help saturate the ground with water.

·       Call LawnScapes to inquire about our Fall Lawn Fertilizing Programs.

·       Remove annuals from their planting beds and add any healthy plants to the compost pile.  Discard any diseased annuals.

·       Clean up and weed the annual beds.  It is a good idea to turn over the soil to allow it to lay fallow over the winter.

·       Have your soil tested so that improvements can be planned over the winter.

·       Split your bulbs, perennials, and replant

·       Remove your summer bulbs and replace with spring blooming ones

·       When raking leaves add them to your compost pile.  Shred them if possible to speed up their decomposition.

·       Prepare your pots for spring planting.  Remove the soil and plants.  Make sure to scrub and sterilize your pots thoroughly.  Dry carefully and store in a dry place to prevent them from cracking over the winter.

·       Clean up your garden tools before storing them.  Any gas powered equipment you will not be using drain the gas, change the oil, and perform any regular maintenance before storing.   

·       Be sure to remove and store your rubber hoses so that they do not split and dry out.  It is also a good idea to blow them out with an air compressor if you have access to one.

·       Think about bringing in your inside plants.  Be sure to adjust them to the warmer environment gradually by leaving them in your garage for a couple of hours a day.  Also check them thoroughly for bugs and other pest.

·       Good idea to consider applying a sealer to your paver patio, walkway, or drive to protect it from salt and the freeze/thaw.

·       Consider trimming evergreens (such as Arborvitaes) susceptible to damage from snow loads.  You can either trim and thin the branches (very selectively) or tie the plant up to hold the stems upright.

·       Spraying plants with an anti-desiccant will protect them from drying out in the persistent wind we receive in Southeastern, Pennsylvania.  Anti-desiccant spray is a waxy coating that protects the foliage from drying out.

·       Wrapping plants in burlap can also help protect foliage from wind damage and burn. 

The LawnScapes Annual Primer

        

Annuals are plants that grow, flower, produce seeds, and die in one growing season.  They are inexpensive, easy to grow, and provide a great, big, splash of color.  Most annuals provide a longer lasting flowering display than perennials or bulbs.  A wonderful variety can be purchased from any Lowe’s, Home Depot, or local garden shop.  Annuals are usually sold in “flats” consisting of about 12 plants.  When purchasing avoid plants that are already in full bloom.  Plants in full bloom will take longer to become established once planted.  Make sure not to purchase any flowers with pale or yellow leaves.  Leaf color can identify whether the plants have been over/under, fertilized or watered.  Annuals can be planted in beds, containers, or flower beds for a display of color and a supply of cut flowers.

            Set aside a day for planting annuals because it is important to plant them as soon as possible.  If you cannot plant them the day of purchase, be sure to place the flats in a location that gets plenty of sun.  Be sure to water them thoroughly until you plant them.  Before planting soak the soil of the bed where you are planting.  Dig a hole and plant the annual no deeper than it was in the pot from the nursery.  Break the roots up gently before placing in the hole.  By breaking up the roots, you encourage new root growth and place more roots in contact with the soil.  Once finished planting, water the bed thoroughly.  When planting in hot, sunny weather shade your plant for the first couple of days to prevent wilting and remove in late afternoon.  If you have deer problems, or your animals eat flowers, spray with “Liquid Fence.”  This is a product, made of all natural products that animals do not like the smell of.  It will need to be re-applied after any rainstorm. 

            During the growing season be sure to “deadhead” to remove faded flowers and encourage new blooms to form.  Once flowering has ceased remove the plants and compost any that are not diseased.  Prepare your soil in late fall by turning it over and tilling in rich compost or worm castings.  By following these, easy step you will have an amazing display of flowers all season long. 

Amending Your Soil

First you must determine the composition of your soil before you amend it.  The best way to determine what to add to your soil is to have it analyzed by an expert.  Pennsylvania State University has an Agricultural Research and Extension Center in most counties.  They can recommend amendments based on the results of the test. 

            Slightly acidic soil around 6.5 pH, is best for most plants, though there are exceptions.  Adding decaying organic matter raises the acidity of your soil, and because of this most garden soil is slightly acidic already.  To raise the alkalinity (raise the pH) use finely ground limestone.  To raise the acidity of an alkaline (basic) soil add flowers of sulfur.  Both of these products are commonly available at large hardware stores and garden centers.  The amount and rate of application of these materials depends on the texture of the soil.  Be careful to only add as much corrective material recommended by a reliable soil test.  The general rule of thumb for adding material to your soil is that you can always add more but you can take it away.  It is very important to raise or lower your soil’s pH level slowly, preferably over a couple of years.  Try to change it too much, too quickly and the soil can swing dangerously in the opposite direction. 

            There are 16 elements known to be required for healthy plant growth.  The main three, Carbon, Hydrogen, and Oxygen, come from the air and water.  All of the rest come from the soil.  Most of the remaining 13 elements are needed in such minute quantities that they are rarely depleted from the soil.  Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), and Potassium (K) are the exceptions to the rule.  Plants use these element the most and because of this they are depleted from soil on a regular basis.  Plants use Nitrogen to make protein, control their form, and help them use carbohydrates.  Plants that are experiencing a Nitrogen deficiency are commonly, thin, spindly, and the older leaves tend to be yellowish green.  Phosphorous helps plants set buds and flower.  Phosphorous facilitates energy storage, efficient water use, and root growth.  Phosphorous deficiency in plants is characterized by bluish-green leaf colorization and stunted growth.  Plants use Potassium to provide disease resistance, make carbohydrates, and regulate metabolic activity.  Generally plants take up five to ten times more Potassium compared to Phosphorous and Nitrogen.  Lacking Potassium plants generally have roots that are not well formed and possess leaves that appear burned.  All fertilizers have a “NPK” rating representing the availability of Nitrogen, Phosphorous, and Potassium (by weight) making up the bag.  For example a 100 pound bag of 10-10-10 fertilizer contains 10 lbs of N, 10 lbs of P, 10 lbs of K, with the remaining 70 lbs being filler material.  Three other important nutrients of Calcium (used in cell membranes), Magnesium (metallic component of chlorophyll), and Sulfur (helps the plant create proteins).  These are usually needed in minute quantities and are plentiful in rich, loamy garden soil.          

Important Resource:

Penn State Cooperative Extension (Chester County Branch)

601 West Town Road, Suite 370

West Chester, PA 19380-0990

Phone: 610.696.3500

Fax: 610.696.4831

Email: ChesterExt@psu.edu

Office Hours: 8:30 am- 4:40 pm

http://chester.extension.psu.edu

A basic soil test costs about $9.00 but you can pay for additional tests.  The forms and instructions for a soil test can be found on their website.

All About Bulbs

Bulbs are a great addition to any garden.  They provide long lasting color from early spring to late fall.  In addition they easily adapt themselves to many varied habitats.  Bulbs grow well in any average soil and full sun.  Bulbs can flourish in numerous habitats lending themselves to being used informally (planted randomly), planted in clumps to create astonishing displays of color, or planted in cracks and nooks in a rock garden.  The actual bulb of a plant is used as food during its dormant season.  Plants that grow from bulbs are called monocotyledons and include onions and garlic.

            When choosing a site for your bulbs, look for an area with average, well-drained soil.  A well drained soil is going to prevent rot.  Bulbs like to be protected from wind and like to grow in full sun.  Prepare the site by digging down at least 10 inches and mix peat moss into the soil.  Use about 2 gallons per square yard.  Bone meal can be added into the planting area at a rate of 5 pounds per 100 square feet.  Remember that bulbs planted in full sun bloom earlier and last longer.  When digging the planting hole make it two or three times the length and width of the bulb you are planting.  It is also important to dig the hole with a flat bottom. Generally plant the bulbs further apart than deep.  It is very important to not trim a bulb’s foliage while it is still alive and growing, wait until it dies back in the winter.

            When choosing bulbs at your local garden center it is important to look for a few things.  Look for bulbs that are firm to the touch, not shriveled or dry looking, and free of soft spots.  Once you purchase your bulbs do not handle them roughly, leave them in a hot area, and make sure that they get plenty of air circulation.  This should insure that your investment is protected until you can plant them.

            Once bulbs are planted they are generally easy to care for.  It is best to remove weeds by hand and especially avoid the use of weed killers.  When weeding wait until the bulb’s shoots start to show.  When a bulb is left in the ground for several years I would recommend feeding them with a general purpose fertilizer or a specialized bulb food.  Take care to scratch this into the soil around the base of the foliage.  Take care when watering to water around the base of the plant and not over the top.  The dead heading of bulbs is recommended to prevent the seeds from propagating unwanted plants.  When dead heading cut off the flower and about 1”-2” of the stem and do not cut back the foliage.  Many bulbs do not need to be artificially supported if they are planted deep enough.  If it is necessary to support a tall plant use a couple of stakes and some string to hold the plants up from the back.  In the winter mulch your bulbs with hay, straw, leaves, or more commonly in this area, bark mulch.  Make sure to mulch after the ground freezes.  This practice insulates the bulbs from extreme weather. 

Bulbs to Research for Southeastern, Pennsylvania:

·       Late Winter Flowering

o   Snowdrop (Galanthus)

o   Winter Aconite (Eranthis hyemalis)

·       Early to Late Spring Flowering

o   March, April, and May have the most spring flowering bulbs

o   Chionodoxa

o   All of the Daffodil Species

o   Hyacinths

o   Muscaris

o   Early Tulips

o   Spring  Snowflakes (Leucojum vernum)

o   Spanish Bluebells (Endymion campanulata)

·       Summer Flowering

o   Dahlias

o   Lilies

·       Autumn Flowering

o   Autumn Crocuses (Colchicum)

o   Fall flowering Crocuses (Crocus)

Mulching.......

I posted this blog earlier this year but I have been getting a lot of questions about mulch and what we recommend lately so here is the re-post.........

Check out mulch options on Delaware Hardscape Supply's website.

Mulch is generally sold by the cubic yard.  A cubic yard is about one bucket of a loader.  In order to make sure that you have enough, I recommend adding 20%-35%, more to the total cubic yards you require.

(x)(y/12)=z/27=Cubic Yards

x= the square footage to cover

y= the depth of the mulch in inches

z= cubic feet

            There are many benefits of mulching your beds and garden.  Mulch keeps weeding to minimum by keeping their seeds from sprouting.  Water in soil naturally evaporates; mulch insulates the soil from drying out.  Mulching can also prevent soil borne diseases from spreading to fruits and leaves.  This happens when water splashes the soil onto the leaves.  Soil will also take longer to change temperatures.  Decomposing slowly, mulch adds nutrients to the soil, and makes the soil looser.  Earth worms really enjoy mulch.  The worms break down the mulch and aerate the soil.  Before mulching it is important to remove weeds currently growing and water thoroughly.  Finer mulches should be applied no more than 2” deep.  Coarser mulches can be laid up to 4” thick.  In order to determine how much mulch you need measure the square footage of your beds you can use this formula:

            Everyone knows that mulch makes our flower beds much, much more attractive.  Mulch is defined as a soil cover that is composed of organic material.  The forest creates its own natural mulch each year when deciduous plant and trees drop their leaves.  Because of this we should replicate natural process in our gardens.  We recommend bark mulch for your beds because it lasts a long time and looks really good.  I usually stay away from stone chips and river jack because they retain heat and can cause root damage.  Using stone as mulch also removes the benefits of decomposition and adding amendments back to the soil.  Mulching should be done about twice a year, once in the spring to freshen your beds and once in the winter to insulate your plant’s roots from the cold.  If you have any questions please do not hesitate to visit our web page at www.lawn-scapes.net.   

-Matt Bradley

Rose Tips and Tricks

          By far, roses are some the most difficult and rewarding flowering shrubs to grow.  Rose colors can range from white, yellow, orange, pink, and of red.  Some of the most popular rose types are:

-Bush Roses: these roses tend to grow quickly and abundantly.  Many, are more disease resistant than the hybrid teas, floribunda, and grandiflora varieties.

- Creeping Roses:  these tend to grow fairly quickly and lay closer to the ground. 

-Climbing Roses: These roses climb like a vine and include the Georgia State Flower, the Cherokee Rose.

-Hybrid Tea, Floribunda, and Grandiflora: These are the types I am going to cover in this blog.  These tend to be the most finicky and disease prone.  If you put the time and effort in the reward will be big, beautiful, and wonderfully fragrant blooms.

There are several strategies that can be observed to help insure successful rose growth.  One of the easiest things to do to insure proper location and soil composition is to grow your roses in a raised bed or containers.  Choose a wide open area that gets plenty of sun.  I had the best luck growing my rose in a container.  This enabled me to control the soils and location of the rose bush. 

Rose bushes grow best in an area with slightly acidic, well drained soil that gets plenty of sunshine.  The best weather to plant a rose bush is a windless, overcast day in the early Spring.  Planting in the early spring allows plenty of time for the roots to establish themselves during the upcoming growing season.  When planting a rose be absolutely sure to dig a hole that is large enough to allow the roots to spread out in their natural form.  Roses should be planted with the bud union (where the graft is generally) above the soil in a warmer climate and no further than 1”-2” in colder climes.  All roses need to be firmly planted.  To accommodate this need, place the plant into the hole, fill in some soil, and pack firmly with your foot every couple of inches until the hole is filled.  This forces the roots into contact with the soil around them. 

During the growing season I recommend daily maintenance and observation of your rose bushes.  This allows you to be on top of the maintenance and quickly catch any diseases that roses can acquire.   Dead heading rose blooms to encourage new flowers to form.  When dead heading; cut the flower stalk back to the first leaf with five leaflets.  Monitor your roses for disease problems throughout the growing season.  Roses are susceptible to numerous disease problems (too numerous for me to cover in this blog!) but some of the most common are aphids, powdery mildew, and black spot.  Any leaves with black spot can be removed and disposed away from the bushes or you run the risk of contamination of other plants.  I recommend picking up a book with pictures of the disease problems so they can be identified and taken care of.

The first year after planting roses should not be fertilized.  This helps them come to terms with the soil they are planted in.  In subsequent years fertilization should begin as soon as new growth is seen and should not be continued past August.  I have great success with Osmocote scratched into the soil.  Fertilization after each blooming period is recommended because it encourages new blooming.  Mulch the ground around your Rose’s roots to insulate them from changes in temperature and to retain moisture.

Pruning should occur late in the dormant season, after the last hard frost (be very sure of this!) and when the buds start to swell.  Make sure that your pruning shears are extremely sharp and that you have invested in some thick leather gloves.  Pruning cuts should be above a bud that is facing outward from the main stem.  The cut should also slope away from the bud in order to encourage water to drain the opposite direction.  Regular pruning techniques otherwise apply.  You want to eliminate weak branches, dead branches, rubbing branches, and branches that are growing inward.  Also prune to maintain the bush’s shape and form.

That about covers the basics of Rose Gardening, and I do mean the basics.  If you have any questions feel free to ask and I will do my best to give you an answer.    

-Matt