Design Blog #1-The Entry Courtyard

In this series I will be discussing the thought process, materials, and hard work that went into our more recent projects.  I hope that this series will not only serve as an example of the quality of work and design, but how we work with the client to arrive at the final design.  This process, though stressful at times, is extremely rewarding for us (the designer/contractor) and the client/homeowner.  I hope you guys enjoy and we would love to hear your thoughts and commentary!

The Entry Courtyard

 I had the pleasure of designing a classic entry courtyard for a home in Chadd’s Ford.  The home is set back quite far off the road providing a large open green space for the front yard.  The current landscaping did not fit the grandeur and architecture of the home.  The home owner was looking for something a little more grand, gave room to lounge, and allowed for the use of the front yard as an area to throw the football or kick a soccer ball.

The obligatory 'before picture'

To accomplish this, I put together a design with the help and input of the clients, incorporating all of their needs, while reacting to the genus loci of the area and the architecture of the home. 

Final Rendering

As you can see from the plan, we worked with a rectilinear design language creating a walled courtyard that still allows for entry to and from the yard.  I chose the classic ‘range pattern’ flagstone to reinforce the rectilinear design and chose to match the face stone of the seat walls to the existing stone on the home.  The walk is edged with a classic double sailor course of 4”x8” bricks.   

Picture of the walkway illustrating the range pattern flagstone and double sailor course border

Picture illustrating the Avondale Brownstone walls of the home and the newly constructed seat walls

These design elements reflect the genus loci of the site by replicating the design language and the materials use the southeastern part of Pennsylvania, and the many stone farmhouses of the area.  All of the materials use were locally sourced and are the classic materials of the region.  In fact, our office is just minutes away from the only quarry that produces the Avondale Brownstone used on the walls!  The pattern on the walls and the home is called ‘rubble’ and requires fitting the stones together like a puzzle, piece by piece.  This is an immensely time consuming endeavor but creates a stunning look that breaks up the wall and creates immense interest.  To cap the walls we used ‘thermalled’ and ‘gauged’ Pennsylvania Bluestone.  ‘Thermalling’ is a technique in which the stone is heated up then sprayed with water to split the stone and create a rough texture.  ‘Gauged’ means that all the stone is split at a specified thickness be it 1, 2, or 3 inches thick.  In the case of our caps they are gauged at 2”.  To finish the seat walls and columns we installed brass lighting fixtures with a louvered finishing plate to light the walls and the walkways. 

Seen here is the focal point of the entry courtyard; this paving detail is to set off the future fountain installation.

The focal point of the courtyard is to be a fountain and the paving detail is meant to set it off.  Planted around the fountain are dwarf boxwoods and red barberry.  The red stone chips were an idea that I took from Longwood Gardens and will help set off the grey colored fountain.

24"x24" Bluestone Steppers set into the lawn

Setting 24” x 24” flagstone stepping stones into sod creates a transition between the hardscape and the grass by breaking up the monolithic feel and injecting a different texture between the stepping stones.  This is meant to draw the eye and make the visitor comfortable leaving the ‘structured’ space.

The evergreen plantings were chosen for ease of maintenance, to add another structural element to the landscape, and because they are a classic landscape element.  Perennials and bulbs will be installed when the weather warms back up in the spring.  The perennials and bulb planting will be a mixture of classic bulbs such as Allium and loose, grassy perennial textural plants such as Coreopsis.

View across the courtyard

Front of the home

As you can see from these pictures we created a dynamic, comfortable space, and that matches the scale of the home.

View into the yard

We used hardscape material from: Delaware Hardscape Supply and CST Pavers.  Our plant material came from Water Crest Farms and Valley View Perennials.  If you have any questions don't hesitate to visit our web page at www.lawn-scapes.net.

-Matt Bradley

What is Xeriscaping?

“What is Xeriscaping?” I am glad you asked.  Xeriscaping is the method and idea of designing a landscape to use minimal water.  I like to take it a step further and say they take minimal maintenance as well.  Though we live in Pennsylvania and not the dry, desert climes where this method originated, I think Xeriscaping has a place in our collective conscience.  A landscape designed with Xeriscaping principals requires a little more thought and planning than a normal design.  To quote Martha Sterwert, “It’s a good thing.”

            Site is one of the most important things when designing for minimal water use.  Is the soil wet or dry?;  is it on a hill where there is a lot of wind?;  is there a lot of shade on the site?; how much turf do you really need?  A site analysis of all these factors, and more, helps me (as the designer) determine plant selection.  Porous paving, rain gardens, and rain water harvesting are all important to a green landscape design, but plant selection is the most important by far.  Native plants are best for a landscape that is designed for minimal water and maintenance.  While most native plants from Pennsylvania are deciduous, they can be supplemented by non-invasive, drought resistant plants.  I like to use native plants because they are already suited to Southeastern Pennsylvania’s climate.  They evolved to deal with the amount of rainfall, the average temperature, and the snowfall we receive.  They work with the landscape and are not fighting against it.

            Another issue when xeriscaping is to decide how much lawn does the average family really need.  Does an average family of four really need an acre (or more) of grass to throw the football, play with the dog, or kick the soccer ball around?  I say no.  I know that a well designed landscape plan can provide more and better uses for a majority of the space, all while minimizing the lawn area.  Lawn and turf grass use more resources per square foot than any other type of landscaping, not to mention spending every Saturday for half the year cutting it.  By mitigating and reducing the large expanse of suburban lawns we cut down on the water and resource usage immediately.

            When designing the planting plan, thinking about the different microclimates on the site is very important.  A small residential lot can have microclimates ranging from wet and shady to dry and sunny.  This needs to be taken into account when selecting plants.  I want to place plants that like those types’ climates in the correct space.  Shape, form, color, and texture are all very important elements to consider when grouping plants together for maximum effect. 

            Mulching is very important to the Xeriscaping method.  Whether it is pine straw, compost, or bark, mulch helps soil retain its moisture and helps insulate a plant’s roots.  By mulching we replicate the natural cycle of leaf drop and decomposition in the forest.  It is best to avoid the use of rocks as mulch because they retain heat, do not add organic material back to the soil, and can leach minerals that could change your soil’s pH. 

            Xeriscaping is an important design consideration.  While not for everyone, a well designed landscape using these methods can provide beauty, functionality, and low maintenance.  All it takes is a little design!  If you have any questions please do not hesitate to visit our web page at www.lawn-scapes.net.

-Matt Bradley

Water Garden Maintenance......Season by Season

               While water gardens are an integral and beautiful part of any garden they take a little work to maintain.  Integrating a seasonal plan for your pond or waterfall makes it easy!!  Since we are in winter here in Southeastern Pennsylvania we will start there.

Fall and Winter

               When the leaves start to fall it is time to think about calling LawnScapes to install leaf netting over your pond.  Leaves falling into you pond from the trees above will throw off the balance of your pond.  Decaying leaves also accumulate on the bottom and create a sludge that can build up over time making the pond shallow.  The skimmer or filter installed with your pond is only designed to pull a random few leaves or the occasional floating debris, not a whole tree’s worth.  The last option, and most labor intensive, is to skim the leaves out of your pond every day.  If your pond has fish, this is the time when their metabolism starts to slow down.  The metabolism of a cold blooded creature rises and lowers with the ambient temperature.  When the water temperature drops into the sixties, decrease the amount of food and feed only once a day.  When water drops below the sixties you can decrease the feeding to two or three times a week; below 50 you should be able to stop feeding all together until the water warms back up.  Since we live in an area where the water will freeze, install a pond de-icer or bubbler.  Ice in your pond will expand and break rocks and trap toxic gases (from decomposing organic material).  Do not be tempted to break the ice up with a shovel as the shockwaves created from this can injure or kill your fish.  The plants in your pond also need tending.  Move all of your shallow water plants deep enough in the pond to keep their roots from freezing.  If your pond is to shallow to protect plants from freezing and does not contain fish, place a cover (like plywood) and a tarp over the pond to provide insulation.  Another option is to remove the plants and store them inside your home.  The best option in our area is to drain all the pipes, filter, and pump of water so they are not damaged by the freezing water.  An interesting idea is to throw some tennis balls into the pond to alleviate any pressure on the pond’s structure from the expansion of ice.

Spring

               As temperatures climb through early and mid spring start feeding your fish again working backwards from the winter feeding schedule.  Remove any accumulation of leaves or debris from the bottom of your pond with a skimmer net or pond vacuum.  There are several products that can help with the decomposition of these debris.  Be careful during this step because removing too much of the accumulated sludge and algae can upset the balance of you pond.  Now is the time to check that all of the equipment is working correctly.  Clean the filter, the skimmer box, and perform the correct maintenance on your pond pump.  Think about dividing and repotting your water plants.  When performing this procedure fertilize them as well!

Summer

               Most importantly, continue the fertilization program that you began in the spring.  As dead foliage begins to appear on your plants, prune and remove to provide more growth.  This also helps keep the pond free from excess debris.  Your fish will be voracious during this time of the year.  Feed them a high protein diet to help them store fat for the winter.  During the summer it is extremely important to ensure that the pond has proper aeration, if not install an additional pump for aeration purposes.  Water will be evaporating more that ever during the summer months.  IF you do not have an automatic fill, add water in intervals.  Adding to much water at once can disturb the temperature balance, chemical levels, and the pH level.  Summer is the time to really enjoy all of the work you put into your pond so, sit back and take in the view!    

These just some general guidelines to point you in the correct direction, if you have any questions or concerns, call us, and we will do our best to answer any questions your may have!  Please visit our website at www.lawn-scapes.net.


-Matt Bradley

All about Water Features

               Water is one of the most desirable elements in the garden and because of this it is the most important elements in the design.  When designing with water, it is important to think about its inherent characteristics: it runs downhill and collects in low spots.  Try to respect and design within these characteristics in mind.  For example, even the most well designed pool will look silly perched on the top of a hill in the middle of a garden.  It is also very important to consider the scale of the water feature in comparison to the scale of the space that it is placed in. 

               Water can be informal or informal.  This is decided upon based on the design of the garden.  A formal reflecting pool would not work in an informal landscape design for example.  When designing an informal pool look to nature and the surrounding local ponds.  Use the informality to inform your plant selection; use native water loving plants for the best results.  Formal pools have many more rules to follow because applying a strong rigid form to a loose, fluid element.  The formal pond should be set in a space that helps define it.  They tend to be free standing and set in the middle of a flat open space.  A formal pool can be many shapes including, rectangles, ellipses, as long as it’s a formal, well defined shape. 

               A pool tends to be the focus of the garden that it is a part of, because of this an important consideration is its appearance in the winter.  To look nice in all seasons a pool needs to have a refined proportions, clean lines, and well designed lines.  Plants can play into the winter landscape as well.  Ornamental grasses, and other plants should be chosen for their winter shape, form, and winter interest.  Making these important considerations will make your pool or water garden have plenty of year round interest.

               Streams and brooks bring movement, sound, and an opportunity to introduce naturalistic plantings to a landscape.  Streams also act as an axis in a garden, dividing spaces, and defining them.  A stream can cut a landscape in two or create and edge for the design.  A stream forces the garden design to form around it and with it.  Bringing informality or formality to the landscape can be accomplished by using a stream as well.  Fast moving water should be focused on; the banks should be treated simply.  Slower moving water can be treated with a seating area, and more elaborate planting areas. 

               Fountains are amazingly dynamic focal points.  Water in a fountain can be use as a gentle gurgle or in a huge, forceful jet.  The best fountains work within the context of the body of water that they are part of.  Elaborate displays of water work in simple spaces; where the plantings or the planning is complicated the water display should be simple and fade into the background.  When designing a fountain think about the visual effects:  How high should the jets rise?; How wide the should the basin be?; How many different levels should there be?; What angles should the jets be at?  These are always a good questions to consider.  If you have any questions please do not hesitate to visit our website at www.lawn-scapes.net.


-Matt Bradley

A Rainy Day in the Garden

Unfortunately a rainy day can prevent us from accomplishing any outdoor tasks in the garden!  So sitting in my office on this soggy day I came up with some ideas to pass the time and to help your garden.

• Look through magazines, catalogs, and the internet to cull some ideas for improving your landscaping.  
• Use this time to maintain your tools-oil your saws, repair any broken handles, etc
• Research plants in your garden and plants you would like to ADD; Research diseases; etc
• Draw a new landscape plan (or better yet call us to set up a free consultation)
• If you have the space rejuvinate your pots for the coming year by pulling out the plants, cleaning the pots thouroughly, and planting the container plants with new soil.
• I am sure that you can come up with more ideas based on the specifics of your landscaping and I would love to hear what you did on your rainy day!

All about Bulbs.....

            Bulbs are a great addition to any garden.  They provide long lasting color from early spring to late fall.  In addition they easily adapt themselves to many varied habitats.  Bulbs grow well in any average soil and full sun.  Bulbs can flourish in numerous habitats lending themselves to being used informally (planted randomly), planted in clumps to create astonishing displays of color, or planted in cracks and nooks in a rock garden.  The actual bulb of a plant is used as food during its dormant season.  Plants that grow from bulbs are called monocotyledons and include onions and garlic.

            When choosing a site for your bulbs, look for an area with average, well-drained soil.  A well drained soil is going to prevent rot.  Bulbs like to be protected from wind and like to grow in full sun.  Prepare the site by digging down at least 10 inches and mix peat moss into the soil.  Use about 2 gallons per square yard.  Bone meal can be added into the planting area at a rate of 5 pounds per 100 square feet.  Remember that bulbs planted in full sun bloom earlier and last longer.  When digging the planting hole make it two or three times the length and width of the bulb you are planting.  It is also important to dig the hole with a flat bottom. Generally plant the bulbs further apart than deep.  It is very important to not trim a bulb’s foliage while it is still alive and growing, wait until it dies back in the winter.

            When choosing bulbs at your local garden center it is important to look for a few things.  Look for bulbs that are firm to the touch, not shriveled or dry looking, and free of soft spots.  Once you purchase your bulbs do not handle them roughly, leave them in a hot area, and make sure that they get plenty of air circulation.  This should insure that your investment is protected until you can plant them.

            Once bulbs are planted they are generally easy to care for.  It is best to remove weeds by hand and especially avoid the use of weed killers.  When weeding wait until the bulb’s shoots start to show.  When a bulb is left in the ground for several years I would recommend feeding them with a general purpose fertilizer or a specialized bulb food.  Take care to scratch this into the soil around the base of the foliage.  Take care when watering to water around the base of the plant and not over the top.  The dead heading of bulbs is recommended to prevent the seeds from propagating unwanted plants.  When dead heading cut off the flower and about 1”-2” of the stem and do not cut back the foliage.  Many bulbs do not need to be artificially supported if they are planted deep enough.  If it is necessary to support a tall plant use a couple of stakes and some string to hold the plants up from the back.  In the winter mulch your bulbs with hay, straw, leaves, or more commonly in this area, bark mulch.  Make sure to mulch after the ground freezes.  This practice insulates the bulbs from extreme weather. 

Bulbs to Research for Southeastern, Pennsylvania:

·       Late Winter Flowering

o   Snowdrop (Galanthus)

o   Winter Aconite (Eranthis hyemalis)

·       Early to Late Spring Flowering

o   March, April, and May have the most spring flowering bulbs

o   Chionodoxa

o   All of the Daffodil Species

o   Hyacinths

o   Muscaris

o   Early Tulips

o   Spring  Snowflakes (Leucojum vernum)

o   Spanish Bluebells (Endymion campanulata)

·       Summer Flowering

o   Dahlias

o   Lilies

·       Autumn Flowering

o   Autumn Crocuses (Colchicum)

o   Fall flowering Crocuses (Crocus)

Creating and Working with the Microclimates in the Garden

A microclimate is an area that continually has a different climate than the greater regional climate.  On a grand scale this phenomenon is exemplified by the urban heat island effect.  The urban heat island effect is caused by the excess pavement absorbing, reflecting, and releasing heat energy making urban areas hotter than the surrounding countryside.    Microclimates can be on a smaller scale as well.  In your garden microclimates can be created by walls, trees, and pavement. 

               Building a small wall in the garden can cause a huge change in your garden by creating a microclimate around the structure.  Depending on the direction the wall is constructed- north to south, east to west, or some direction in between, the shadows casted will turn areas that were previously full sun areas into part shade.  This needs to be taken into effect when designing because plants need to be selected for this newly created microclimates.  The ground on the bright side of the wall could become dry and the plants that grew there before will not do well anymore. 

Ways to create microclimates in your garden:

·        Plant trees to shade patios and other open spaces.

·        Install a pergola to shade your house as well as the patio.

·        Reduce the amount of paving around your house.

·        Color of the pavement should also be considered.  A dark color absorbs more heat than a lighter color.

·        Plant sun loving and drought tolerant plants next to walls.

·        Cold air is much like water.  It runs downhill and gathers in low lying area.  Be aware of this and choose plantings to accommodate this.

·        Slopes, depending on which way they face, create zones that are warmer than others.  Slopes facing south area generally warmer than slopes facing north.

·        Use walls and dense evergreen plantings to create windbreaks.

·        Use trees and shrubs to shade the south side of your house. This keeps your house cooler and will save you money on your energy bill.

Whats All This Rain Good For?

With the record setting amounts of rain we’ve had in the past few weeks keeping lawns cut has been challenging.  But with all this rain there are many benefits, soft soil being one.  September and October are the prime months to core aerate and overseed your lawn.  Core aeration and overseeding provide visable benefits to your lawn above ground and stimulate root growth below the soil.  By aerating the lawn, you are breaking up compaction in the soil which allows water and air to move about, stimulating lawn roots.  Aeration also breaks up any thatch that has accumulated throughout the growing season.  After aeration, it is best to overseed with a Tall fescue mixture.  Be sure to check where your seed comes from, the germination rate and the Weed Seed Percentage.  Seed should be spread at approximately 5 pounds per 1000 square feet, 7-8 pounds per 1000 in bare areas.  Grass seed will need 1.5- 2 inches of watering per week and you should see germination (growth) in 2 weeks time. 

-Mike Pickel

Winterizing Your Garden and Landscape; A To Do List

When the long, cold winter begins approaching in October it is a good idea to start your winter projects.  I have heard many gardening enthusiast lamenting the fact that they never give themselves enough time to complete their projects before the long snowy seasons hits.  So here is a list (in no way is this comprehensive!) of projects and things to think about before the snow hits.

·       It is a good idea to add 2”-3” of mulch around your trees and shrubs to protect their roots from the temperature change.

·       Remember to water your lawn and plants into the fall to help saturate the ground with water.

·       Call LawnScapes to inquire about our Fall Lawn Fertilizing Programs.

·       Remove annuals from their planting beds and add any healthy plants to the compost pile.  Discard any diseased annuals.

·       Clean up and weed the annual beds.  It is a good idea to turn over the soil to allow it to lay fallow over the winter.

·       Have your soil tested so that improvements can be planned over the winter.

·       Split your bulbs, perennials, and replant

·       Remove your summer bulbs and replace with spring blooming ones

·       When raking leaves add them to your compost pile.  Shred them if possible to speed up their decomposition.

·       Prepare your pots for spring planting.  Remove the soil and plants.  Make sure to scrub and sterilize your pots thoroughly.  Dry carefully and store in a dry place to prevent them from cracking over the winter.

·       Clean up your garden tools before storing them.  Any gas powered equipment you will not be using drain the gas, change the oil, and perform any regular maintenance before storing.   

·       Be sure to remove and store your rubber hoses so that they do not split and dry out.  It is also a good idea to blow them out with an air compressor if you have access to one.

·       Think about bringing in your inside plants.  Be sure to adjust them to the warmer environment gradually by leaving them in your garage for a couple of hours a day.  Also check them thoroughly for bugs and other pest.

·       Good idea to consider applying a sealer to your paver patio, walkway, or drive to protect it from salt and the freeze/thaw.

·       Consider trimming evergreens (such as Arborvitaes) susceptible to damage from snow loads.  You can either trim and thin the branches (very selectively) or tie the plant up to hold the stems upright.

·       Spraying plants with an anti-desiccant will protect them from drying out in the persistent wind we receive in Southeastern, Pennsylvania.  Anti-desiccant spray is a waxy coating that protects the foliage from drying out.

·       Wrapping plants in burlap can also help protect foliage from wind damage and burn. 

The LawnScapes Annual Primer

        

Annuals are plants that grow, flower, produce seeds, and die in one growing season.  They are inexpensive, easy to grow, and provide a great, big, splash of color.  Most annuals provide a longer lasting flowering display than perennials or bulbs.  A wonderful variety can be purchased from any Lowe’s, Home Depot, or local garden shop.  Annuals are usually sold in “flats” consisting of about 12 plants.  When purchasing avoid plants that are already in full bloom.  Plants in full bloom will take longer to become established once planted.  Make sure not to purchase any flowers with pale or yellow leaves.  Leaf color can identify whether the plants have been over/under, fertilized or watered.  Annuals can be planted in beds, containers, or flower beds for a display of color and a supply of cut flowers.

            Set aside a day for planting annuals because it is important to plant them as soon as possible.  If you cannot plant them the day of purchase, be sure to place the flats in a location that gets plenty of sun.  Be sure to water them thoroughly until you plant them.  Before planting soak the soil of the bed where you are planting.  Dig a hole and plant the annual no deeper than it was in the pot from the nursery.  Break the roots up gently before placing in the hole.  By breaking up the roots, you encourage new root growth and place more roots in contact with the soil.  Once finished planting, water the bed thoroughly.  When planting in hot, sunny weather shade your plant for the first couple of days to prevent wilting and remove in late afternoon.  If you have deer problems, or your animals eat flowers, spray with “Liquid Fence.”  This is a product, made of all natural products that animals do not like the smell of.  It will need to be re-applied after any rainstorm. 

            During the growing season be sure to “deadhead” to remove faded flowers and encourage new blooms to form.  Once flowering has ceased remove the plants and compost any that are not diseased.  Prepare your soil in late fall by turning it over and tilling in rich compost or worm castings.  By following these, easy step you will have an amazing display of flowers all season long. 

Amending Your Soil

First you must determine the composition of your soil before you amend it.  The best way to determine what to add to your soil is to have it analyzed by an expert.  Pennsylvania State University has an Agricultural Research and Extension Center in most counties.  They can recommend amendments based on the results of the test. 

            Slightly acidic soil around 6.5 pH, is best for most plants, though there are exceptions.  Adding decaying organic matter raises the acidity of your soil, and because of this most garden soil is slightly acidic already.  To raise the alkalinity (raise the pH) use finely ground limestone.  To raise the acidity of an alkaline (basic) soil add flowers of sulfur.  Both of these products are commonly available at large hardware stores and garden centers.  The amount and rate of application of these materials depends on the texture of the soil.  Be careful to only add as much corrective material recommended by a reliable soil test.  The general rule of thumb for adding material to your soil is that you can always add more but you can take it away.  It is very important to raise or lower your soil’s pH level slowly, preferably over a couple of years.  Try to change it too much, too quickly and the soil can swing dangerously in the opposite direction. 

            There are 16 elements known to be required for healthy plant growth.  The main three, Carbon, Hydrogen, and Oxygen, come from the air and water.  All of the rest come from the soil.  Most of the remaining 13 elements are needed in such minute quantities that they are rarely depleted from the soil.  Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), and Potassium (K) are the exceptions to the rule.  Plants use these element the most and because of this they are depleted from soil on a regular basis.  Plants use Nitrogen to make protein, control their form, and help them use carbohydrates.  Plants that are experiencing a Nitrogen deficiency are commonly, thin, spindly, and the older leaves tend to be yellowish green.  Phosphorous helps plants set buds and flower.  Phosphorous facilitates energy storage, efficient water use, and root growth.  Phosphorous deficiency in plants is characterized by bluish-green leaf colorization and stunted growth.  Plants use Potassium to provide disease resistance, make carbohydrates, and regulate metabolic activity.  Generally plants take up five to ten times more Potassium compared to Phosphorous and Nitrogen.  Lacking Potassium plants generally have roots that are not well formed and possess leaves that appear burned.  All fertilizers have a “NPK” rating representing the availability of Nitrogen, Phosphorous, and Potassium (by weight) making up the bag.  For example a 100 pound bag of 10-10-10 fertilizer contains 10 lbs of N, 10 lbs of P, 10 lbs of K, with the remaining 70 lbs being filler material.  Three other important nutrients of Calcium (used in cell membranes), Magnesium (metallic component of chlorophyll), and Sulfur (helps the plant create proteins).  These are usually needed in minute quantities and are plentiful in rich, loamy garden soil.          

Important Resource:

Penn State Cooperative Extension (Chester County Branch)

601 West Town Road, Suite 370

West Chester, PA 19380-0990

Phone: 610.696.3500

Fax: 610.696.4831

Email: ChesterExt@psu.edu

Office Hours: 8:30 am- 4:40 pm

http://chester.extension.psu.edu

A basic soil test costs about $9.00 but you can pay for additional tests.  The forms and instructions for a soil test can be found on their website.

All About Bulbs

Bulbs are a great addition to any garden.  They provide long lasting color from early spring to late fall.  In addition they easily adapt themselves to many varied habitats.  Bulbs grow well in any average soil and full sun.  Bulbs can flourish in numerous habitats lending themselves to being used informally (planted randomly), planted in clumps to create astonishing displays of color, or planted in cracks and nooks in a rock garden.  The actual bulb of a plant is used as food during its dormant season.  Plants that grow from bulbs are called monocotyledons and include onions and garlic.

            When choosing a site for your bulbs, look for an area with average, well-drained soil.  A well drained soil is going to prevent rot.  Bulbs like to be protected from wind and like to grow in full sun.  Prepare the site by digging down at least 10 inches and mix peat moss into the soil.  Use about 2 gallons per square yard.  Bone meal can be added into the planting area at a rate of 5 pounds per 100 square feet.  Remember that bulbs planted in full sun bloom earlier and last longer.  When digging the planting hole make it two or three times the length and width of the bulb you are planting.  It is also important to dig the hole with a flat bottom. Generally plant the bulbs further apart than deep.  It is very important to not trim a bulb’s foliage while it is still alive and growing, wait until it dies back in the winter.

            When choosing bulbs at your local garden center it is important to look for a few things.  Look for bulbs that are firm to the touch, not shriveled or dry looking, and free of soft spots.  Once you purchase your bulbs do not handle them roughly, leave them in a hot area, and make sure that they get plenty of air circulation.  This should insure that your investment is protected until you can plant them.

            Once bulbs are planted they are generally easy to care for.  It is best to remove weeds by hand and especially avoid the use of weed killers.  When weeding wait until the bulb’s shoots start to show.  When a bulb is left in the ground for several years I would recommend feeding them with a general purpose fertilizer or a specialized bulb food.  Take care to scratch this into the soil around the base of the foliage.  Take care when watering to water around the base of the plant and not over the top.  The dead heading of bulbs is recommended to prevent the seeds from propagating unwanted plants.  When dead heading cut off the flower and about 1”-2” of the stem and do not cut back the foliage.  Many bulbs do not need to be artificially supported if they are planted deep enough.  If it is necessary to support a tall plant use a couple of stakes and some string to hold the plants up from the back.  In the winter mulch your bulbs with hay, straw, leaves, or more commonly in this area, bark mulch.  Make sure to mulch after the ground freezes.  This practice insulates the bulbs from extreme weather. 

Bulbs to Research for Southeastern, Pennsylvania:

·       Late Winter Flowering

o   Snowdrop (Galanthus)

o   Winter Aconite (Eranthis hyemalis)

·       Early to Late Spring Flowering

o   March, April, and May have the most spring flowering bulbs

o   Chionodoxa

o   All of the Daffodil Species

o   Hyacinths

o   Muscaris

o   Early Tulips

o   Spring  Snowflakes (Leucojum vernum)

o   Spanish Bluebells (Endymion campanulata)

·       Summer Flowering

o   Dahlias

o   Lilies

·       Autumn Flowering

o   Autumn Crocuses (Colchicum)

o   Fall flowering Crocuses (Crocus)